In answer to a couple of recurrent questions:ġ. This is a fabulous idea, as I do have access to both sides. Also thank you everyone for your super fast, varies responses. That way you are less likely to crack the plaster when you tighten the nuts. Even better, slip the bolts through a piece of EMT or other tubing that's as long as the wall is thick, and then put some big fender washers under the head and nut. Alternatively, if you have access to both sides of the wall, and a long enough drill bit, mount the board with bolts that go all the way through the wall. Toggles with the longest, widest wings you can find. That will, locally, turn the wall into an impromptu SIP. If the walls are as unsupported as you claim, you can make them rigid in the area where you're attaching things by pumping some expanding urethane foam insulation into the cavity. Wall cabinets are sometimes installed this way because it's so easily undone or adjusted. This system allows you to easily take down the hangboard and reconsider your wall mount system if necessary. Then simply hook one bevelled strip over the other. Mount the other on the back of the plywood that your hangboard is on, with the bevel down and its toe outward. If you've got access to a saw, you could also rip a couple of strips of wood or plywood or something with a 10 or 15 degree bevel along one edge, and mount one strip on the wall with the bevel up and its toe outward. The beam will be exposed, but it will keep the floor flush above.Don't use anchors.In the below-ceiling technique, cut the posts slightly shorter and have the joists above rest directly on top of the beam across.Step 6: Cut the Posts (Below-Ceiling Technique) The joists will be attached to the new beam and the beam will rest directly on the point loads, but be flush with the ceiling. In the above-ceiling technique, cut into the joists to allow a beam to be installed in between.Step 5: Cut into Joists (Above-Ceiling Technique) Both methods rely on redistributing the weight from the load-bearing wall to the walls beside it by creating point loads.Use one of the techniques Tom demonstrated in the segment: the below-ceiling technique and the above-ceiling technique.Step 4: Use Either the Below-Ceiling or Above-Ceiling Technique Place them over the weight-bearing beam in the floor below.Add posts to either side of the wall to accept a beam to redistribute the weight above.Place the temporary walls close enough to the structural wall but far enough away to work on the structural wall. Start by adding temporary walls to either side of the wall being removed to hold up the weight while work is being done.If it’s perpendicular, it most likely is a load-bearing wall.If the wall runs parallel to the joists, it’s probably not load-bearing.Check an unfinished basement or attic to see which way the joists run.Step 1: Determine Whether a Wall Is Load-Bearing or Not These methods will prevent the floor above from sagging and can give you the open layout you desire. Tom demonstrates two ways of removing these walls: the above-ceiling technique and the below-ceiling technique. Related How to Remove a Load-Bearing Wall Steps for Identifying and Removing Load-Bearing Walls
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